Norma Kamali NYFW Spring/Summer 2026 Collection Review: A Homage to Her Classics

New York-based, Lebanese and Basque-American designer Norma Kamali presented her three newest collections at the 2026 Spring/Summer New York Fashion Week. The pieces paid homage to her most successful and iconic looks from the 1970s to today. With an emphasis on simple, comfortable women’s fashion, she designed a complete ready-to-wear wardrobe for this upcoming spring and summer.

Kamali joined the fashion industry in 1967 after opening a boutique focused on London street-style with her then-husband Mohammad “Eddie” Kamali. After their divorce, she opened her first solely-owned brand, OMO Norma Kamali — standing for “on my own” — where she primarily sold sportswear and one piece swimsuits. These one-pieces marked her early rise to success, with Whitney Houston wearing one on the back cover of her 1985 debut album. She continued designing sportswear and athleisure into the 1980s when she designed her breakout line, the “Sweats” collection. In it, she transformed a basic sweatsuit into professional and stylish women's clothing. This past winter, she centered her Fall/Winter 2025 collection on old Hollywood fashion, switching gears from day-to-day clothing to more exuberant pieces.

In her most recent collection, Kamali combined all three of her greatest hits to develop a robust collection for women to build their Spring/Summer “uniform.” She divided the show into three distinct lines: the Sweats collection, Lifestyle collection, and Wardrobe collection.

Kamali reimagined her famous "Sweats" collection from the 80s. By Courtesy of Anat Goldstein

In the Sweats collection, Kamali restricted herself to greys and whites, working with just three materials to create a line defined entirely by silhouette. Each piece fell into one of two categories: shimmery, metallic silver outfits intended for going out or day-to-day, 1950s-inspired looks made from clean white fabric and soft, gray, cotton sweats. The collection’s strength lies in Kamali’s ability to elevate sweat material into more professional settings. On the other hand, the silver pieces felt redundant and disconnected, forcing a youthful “night out” feel into what was otherwise a sweat-based homage to midcentury fashion.

The sweats, however, were exceptional, demonstrating exactly why Kamali’s designs have endured. Two standout looks paired flowy white skirts with structured sweat tops: one a sweatshirt with its own collar, the other layered over a tucked-in white collared shirt. These looks recalled vintage women’s fashion but reimagined it with the comfort of sweats, modernizing femininity without sacrificing elegance. In another piece, she used a similar concept to create a more youthful tone, pairing a mini-pleated sweat skirt with the same loose sweat top and tucked-in collar. At its core, Kamali’s vision was for women to feel dressed-up while still feeling at ease.

Kamali's Wardrobe collection featured striking white and black designs. By Courtesy of Anat Goldstein

In her Wardrobe collection, Kamali shifted toward more refined, “updressed” looks, reimagining the classic little black dress. Similar to the Sweats collection, this line was anchored by a strict black-and-white palette, combining shimmery black fabric with simple textiles in black and white and occasionally embroidered mesh. The collection echoed her earlier Old Hollywood line with clear references to her signature hooded gowns and bonnet-inspired pieces.

Kamali excels in stripped-down looks and the Wardrobe collection is no exception. The most striking piece was also the simplest: a long black V-neck dress, fitted to perfection — cinched at the waist before flowing out from the hips. Paired with two long white gloves, the look, again, called to mind vintage women’s fashion. Together, the look seamlessly blends modern minimalism with the Old Hollywood glamour Kamali aims to channel.

Norma Kamali's latest collection featured a swimwear line. By Courtesy of Anat Goldstein

The Lifestyle collection, intended as the most spring-like and vibrant with its palette of pinks, whites, and grays, was ultimately the weakest of the three. The combination of gowns and sweats prevented either from making a strong statement.

The line was redeemed by the addition of swimwear. Ranging from revealing to conservative, the swimsuits catered to every woman’s level of comfort. True to Kamali’s style, they echoed vintage designs with skirted bottoms and bonnet-inspired headpieces, with her most interesting looks completed by long, draped cover-up jackets. While not as groundbreaking as her iconic swimwear of the 70s and 80s, these pieces nonetheless stood out within the collection.

For the set design, Kamali created a stripped-down presentation that placed full emphasis on the clothing. She staged the show in a bare warehouse, arranging each collection on white mannequins positioned in three lines forming a U-shape. A large screen stretched across the front wall, displaying a sliding showcase of every look on a model. Two QR codes on the walls linked to videos of Kamali herself explaining the goals behind the collection.

The faint runway music playing in the background was completely overpowered by the lively chatter of the countless influencers and reporters packed into the room, all enamoured by the work Kamali put together this fashion season.

In this line, Kamali once again proved that she designs fashion for women, by women, drawing on the fan-favorite styles that defined her past. While this collection played it safe, Kamali has expressed her intention to harness artificial intelligence to revolutionize her brand. For now, we’ve taken a nostalgic trip through her fashion history — perhaps her next line will mark the beginning of an entirely new era.

—Staff writer Anat Goldstein can be reached at anat.goldstein@thecrimson.com.