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Walking through the doors of Lou’s on Brattle Street feels like stepping back a century. Dark wood paneling, velvet seating, and jeweled lights shine against shelves of old books and scattered jazz instruments. Mirrors and curtains give the illusion of a theater, an impression that’s heightened by a record wall beside a small stage where live jazz plays several nights a week. The ambience is near-perfect — sophisticated and elegant, while still approachable.
Guests choose their own adventure for seating: booths for intimacy, bar tables for a night out, or deep couches by the stage for a dinner with a performance. The bar is marble-tile bordered with neatly organized bottles, curated much like the music on the walls. It’s a place designed for special nights out — date nights, anniversaries, birthdays — where dressing up feels like part of the menu.
However, if the setting aspires to the decadence of a vintage jazz club, the menu falls short of the promise. Traditionally, jazz bars — especially in Black cultural hubs like New Orleans — lean toward Creole and soul food: fried catfish, gumbo, jambalaya, dishes rich in history and spice. Lou’s, by contrast, trades those flavors for a safer, more generic fare, more aligned with the typical Harvard Square brunch crowd than a historical jazz bar.
The menu is split into small plates, sandwiches, and larger plates. From the small plates, the shishito peppers, spiced with togarashi and balanced with mayo, are pleasant but formulaic — a dish you could find in any trendy bar around the square. The Lou’s Burger is juicy, stacked with Vermont cheddar, grilled onions, and a potato roll, yet it still lands closer to a backyard cookout than a high-end burger, lacking a powerful sauce or ingredient that makes it stand out in any way. From the larger plates: The grilled local fish is well-charred, while its accompanying zucchini feels more obligatory rather than inspired. The flavors never take risks, and thus never tell a story beyond well-executed American comfort food.
A few redeeming qualities include the ricotta zucchini flower paired with the grilled local fish, adding an edge to the dish that is otherwise bland. Moreover, the dessert, while simple, includes a cannoli cream with perfect texture and flavor, fresh berries, and well-baked lady fingers.
The dishes are by no means bad, or even average, yet in a space so richly imagined, the menu feels like an afterthought, geared toward an audience who wants the aesthetic of a jazz bar without its culinary soul.
Still, Lou’s impresses in its service and experience — free birthday desserts, live jazz performances, and kind waitstaff. Lou’s succeeds in creating a mood — one of history, romance, and performance. But, the disconnect between food and space ultimately keeps it from achieving a perfect score. The restaurant feels like a gentrified jazz bar: The music and decor are there, but the menu doesn’t dig into the tradition it gestures toward. Instead, it settles for the safe middle, prioritizing aesthetic over flavor.
Lou’s is a place worth visiting for the scene alone, and at under $30 a plate, the price point makes the performance accessible. For jazzlovers, it’s a must see, especially on nights with live performances. But for those seeking substance to match the style, the experience might leave you wanting.
—Staff writer Anat Goldstein can be reached at anat.goldstein@thecrimson.com.
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