Gufo Review: A Step Up in Italian Dining, But Lacking the Final Touch

Stepping under the warm, covered patio lights of Gufo — a new Italian restaurant in East Cambridge whose name translates to “owl” — diners are greeted with a cozy, rustic vibe formed by overhead string lights, well-spaced tables, and attractive wooden paneling. With kind greetings and speedy service, Gufo sets high expectations right from the start.

Bread is unfortunately not served at the start of the meal — which, combined with a chill air that the patio’s heat lamps do little to combat, initially places some reservations on the high expectations set earlier. That is, until the food arrives.

The pizza margherita — the classic, most fundamental pizza that every pizzeria must master — strangely arrives before any of the other dishes. However, this idiosyncratic serving order does little harm after a first bite.

In the grand scheme of Boston-based Italian restaurants — of which there are many — Gufo’s margherita holds its own. The crust is thin, but not paper thin, and creates a wonderfully easy eating experience. A strong, well-rounded tomato sauce serves as the base for fresh mozzarella and the classic pizza companion of aromatic, fresh-tasting basil.

While not the best pizza in the greater Boston area, Gufo’s margherita is certainly a strong contender, with only a few drawbacks. In true American style, there is too much oregano on the pizza, creating more of a flavor clash than a light accent. The cheese is spread evenly across the whole pizza — a purely aesthetic choice, but one that still distracts from the authentic margherita’s individual mozzarella slices.

The outside crust of the pizza is a good size and thickness, though it is unfortunately quite burnt, making it not tasty enough to eat on its own. In all, though, the drawbacks are quite minor when compared to the pleasant surprise of finding an — almost — true Italian margherita in Boston, an honor which is reserved for only a few pizzerias.

Although the pizza is successful, the arancini are undoubtedly the highlight of the restaurant. Gufo’s arancini are cacio e pepe style, which is a rare choice for Boston-made arancini, but one that serves them incredibly well. The perfectly crunchy rice balls boast a nice balance of both cheese and rice. The light topping of pepper hits moments after the first bite, bringing a sharp balance to the appetizer. The parmesan’s texture adds that little bit of crumble to the arancino, and the different cheeses — including the one draped on top of the three arancini — coalesce perfectly at the top of the palate.

The squid ink pasta, the low point of the meal, boasts some strange culinary choices. The overly spicy ‘nduja butter and lemon sauce clash with the seafood-based dish and would belong better with a meat dish than a delicate pasta. The pasta itself, although quite a bit thicker than spaghetti — which is the standard shape for squid-ink pasta — is cooked well, if not slightly underdone, and the jet-black dough is pleasant, making up for any missing cooking time.

Gufo is certainly a step up from many Boston-area Italian restaurants. Satisfying arancini can often be hard to find in Italian restaurants in the U.S. in general, yet Gufo manages to hit the nail right on the head with theirs. However, Italian cuisine, while simple at face value, relies heavily on the subtleties of a dish — elements that sometimes slipped through Gufo’s fingers.

Instead of succumbing to the over-Americanization of its Italian tastes, the owl will hopefully wisen up regarding its few mistakes, allowing Gufo to transform into a mainstay of Italian cuisine in Boston.

—Staff writer Alessandro M. M. Drake can be reached at alessandro.drake@thecrimson.com.