Cardullo’s Owner, 68, Dies of Cancer

Frances R. Cardullo—the owner of Cardullo’s Gourmet Shoppe whose passion for food, travel, and the Red Sox made her an icon in Harvard Square—died last Wednesday at the age of 68.

Born in Winchester, Mass., Cardullo—who underwent a gender reassignment surgery recently and identified as female—grew up in Cambridge and attended Tufts University. She earned a flying license at an early age and worked as a contract pilot for two decades before returning to take over the store, which had been founded by her father in 1950.

According to Cardullo’s daughter, Donez J. Cardullo-Tavilla, Cardullo “literally traveled all over the world,” bringing back “true delicacies” that could not be found anywhere in America.

Cardullo-Tavilla added that her warmest memories of Cardullo involved “food, food, food.” She said her father was a devoted food connoisseur who always insisted on using the best ingredients.

“It was unheard of to have a frozen dinner, to have Wonder bread, or Chips Ahoy cookies,” she said.

Cardullo-Tavilla added that Cardullo’s commitment to quality earned her the respect of not only Harvard Square and the Cambridge community, but also the entire food industry.

“My father was some sort of food god,” she said.

Cardullo’s colleagues said they would remember her generosity.

“Whenever she was asked to help the association, you always knew that she would say yes,” said John P. DiGiovanni, president of the Harvard Square Business Association.

Cardullo-Tavilla added that if someone came into the store with only five dollars, her father would make sure the customer got a sandwich that was worth his money.

DiGiovanni also said that he admired Cardullo’s courage, especially in her decision to undergo a sex change late in life.

“I received a letter she sent out a letter to many folks explaining why she was making the decision she made,” DiGiovanni said. “She sent it with a gift, a nice bottle of wine or champagne with a letter explaining what was happening,”

Cardullo-Tavilla said that dealing with the transition was difficult at times, but she and her siblings accepted their father’s decision because they wanted Cardullo to be happy.

“Wearing a dress or wearing pants he was always our father,” Cardullo-Tavilla said.

Denise A. Jillson, executive director of the Harvard Square Business Association, also praised Cardullo for her courage, and said that it was “profoundly unfair” that her colon cancer diagnosis—which occurred in 2007—came so soon.

But Cardullo-Tavilla said she and her siblings, who have assumed responsibility of the store, will continue to uphold Cardullo’s spirit and traditions—especially broadcasting Red Sox games in the TV screen in the store’s front window.

“Instead of my father sitting outside watching the games it will be myself and my son in his place,” she said.