Getting a Schooling in Beer

It’s all in the yeast, G. Robert Tod, Jr., founder of Allagash Brewing Co., said at the Cambridge Queen’s Head Pub yesterday as part of its ongoing “Beer School” series. “If you’re not using Belgian yeast strains, you’re not making Belgian-style beers,” said Tod, whose Maine-based microbrewery has made a name crafting superior beers in that exacting European style.

Tod went on to explain that these particular strains, originally used in wine production, are responsible for the light cloudiness, complex flavor, and silky texture characteristic of Belgian beers. The practice probably results from Belgium’s location between vinicultural France and beer-loving Germany, the brew-master told the crowd of about 20.

Belgian brewers, Tod said, typically make use of aromatics like orange peel and coriander for flavor, adding candy sugar to produce an elevated average alcohol content of nine percent.

But according to Tod, proper enjoyment of a Belgian beer requires attention to this yeast component: three quarters of the beer is poured first, with the remainder swirled inside the bottle to lift any settled yeast before being added to the glass.

Students and pub-goers in attendance were happy to oblige, partaking of four of the brewery’s proudest offerings.

“This is the second-best brewery I’ve had here,” said Bradley J. Jones ’09, who said he had been to almost every class since Beer School has been in session.

The Interlude, which Tod characterized as Allagash’s more “experimental” brew, received particularly enthusiastic reviews.

“It’s a really great autumn-y beer,” said Patrick W. McKiernan ’09, who added that he appreciated the opportunity to discover the richness and variety of locally brewed beers.

“It’s great to know how different they are from bigger producers,” he said.

Jones added: “The beer selection in New England is better than anywhere in the country. It’s a beer drinker’s paradise.”

Last night’s class benefitted from a more intimate set-up than usual, as Tod strolled around the Pub to speak with tables individually about the beers and the brewery. In past Beer School events, speakers have mostly rushed through several brews from the confines of the Pub stage.

Samuel M. Chamberlain ’09, who helped to organize the event, said the change was an improvement. “We might do this in future classes,” he added.