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A Little Time for Takemura

Walking down the stairs into the little avocado green netherworld of Takemura, you know one thing for certain: this restaurant is brand new.

In a sense, however, you would be wrong. Takemura occupies the repainted, remodeled hull of Narita, a clean, competent and under-appreciated neighborhood sushi place that closed last May.

Unlike Narita, Takemura is not, as of yet, particularly recommendable. The restaurant opened a couple weeks ago and it is obvious that, if nothing else, it needs more time.

Rookie mistakes abound: my companion and I were not served water, or given plates, until we asked. We were not offered Japanese tea, which is a given at any reputable sushi bar. We were seated under a fluorescent light clearly in need of replacement, and beside the table that Takemura reserves for its accounting (resulting in the constant sound of clacking calculators and shuffling papers).

We began by ordering edamame, steamed, salted soy bean pods. They were, unfortunately, the worst edamame I’ve ever had—overcooked, oversalted, overripe. They were followed by a serving of shumai, steamed pork-filled dumplings. This second classic was another disappointment—the little appetizers felt gooey, not firm, and smelled stale, not fresh.

The waitress, a sweet and somewhat scattered twenty-something who, like the restaurant itself, was clearly new to the business but trying hard, had suggested what the menu called “lightly deep fried mashed boiled pumpkin” next. Difficult as this was to resist, we asked if she could bring some miso soup instead. The waitress argued against it—“miso doesn’t come with your meal.” We replied that we had no problem with paying for it. “Ok,” she said reluctantly. Let’s just say it isn’t enthusiastically offered for a reason.

And yet: we also saw glimmers of hope. The agedashi dofu—fried tofu served in a fish broth and alongside grated daikon radish—was surprisingly rich and flavorful. The teriyaki salmon was exactly as it should be—grilled, perfectly done, in a gooey sweet lacquer, and accompanied by a little side of crisp, stir-fried vegetables.

The sushi was fine, though not particularly memorable. We ordered yellowtail, tuna and salmon, both rolled and unrolled, and even though we had a clear view of the man in the chef’s hat making it, the sushi tasted like the pre-made stuff available at the Science Center for about half Takemura’s price.

The trouble was—at that point—we had so loaded up on the appetizers that it seemed impossible to manage more than a few bites. And sadly, there is nothing about the restaurant’s sushi that would encourage overindulgence.

Takemura turned Narita green—replacing not just the old walls, but (apparently) the experienced chefs and servers as well. So many of the ingredients required for success are already there: a great location, the right kind of food, a dedicated staff. Like good sushi, Takemura may simply take some practice.

Takemura

18 Eliot Street

(617) 492-6700

the red house: a Warm Welcome Home

The newest addition to the Harvard Square restaurant and bar scene is also an historic remnant of Old Cambridge. the red house is a delightful blend of the modern and the traditional. A former family residence, the 200 year-old red house at 98 Winthrop St. opened its doors to the greater Boston community this past summer. The family may be gone, but it’s still home.

Not to be confused with Redline, the trendier establishment that lies just around the corner, the red house is less the superficial see-and-be-seen hotspot and more the setting for an intimate dining experience. The original structure has been largely preserved. Atop a winding wooden staircase, the upstairs area has been restored and converted into three private dining rooms that each feature authentic period detail, working fireplaces, wide pine floors and distinctive decorative elements. Downstairs the building was expanded to accommodate a new kitchen, main dining room and full fireside bar. Amidst the wood-paneled walls and simple table settings, the dining room’s main attraction is the central, lantern-rimmed skylight that makes for a night of indoor stargazing. The adjacent fireside bar recalls a ski lodge at wintertime, and those who feel more claustrophobic under low ceilings and dim lighting can always dine outdoors on the fantastic front patio.

The food itself is good, though perhaps not quite as authentic as the building. The lunch and dinner menus feature eclectic Mediterranean and European fare ranging from foie gras to filet mignon (a tender favorite) and from hearty house salads to seafood. Each night, there are at least a dozen specials to choose from, such as a classic French cassoulet or an Italian risotto. Meals begin with olives and fresh-baked bread, and at peak times the rather slow service allows diners ample time to study the specials.

While entrées can be a bit pricey, the penny-pinching college student has the option of ordering expensive entrée items in a more affordable appetizer size, which is more than sufficient for a light dinner. As for drinks, the restaurant invites customers to “choose something sinful” from their “sumptuous” martini menu. Wine and beer are also available. After dinner, diners can choose from a decadent menu of desserts from Finale and Christina’s Ice Cream that changes daily, though some may opt to save a dollar and get their sweets from the original source.

Diners will leave the red house happy, but they are less likely to remember the chow than the charm. Those seeking the standard meet-and-greet or the late-night bar scene might want to head a bit further down on JFK Street, and others looking for bona-fide cuisine might want to head over to the North End. But those in search of old-fashioned ambiance and an eclectic menu should stay put. the red house is not red-hot…but definitely warm and cozy.

Serving lunch: Tuesday-Saturday, 12 p.m.-3 p.m.

Serving dinner: Tuesday-Saturday, 5 p.m.-11 p.m., Sunday 1 p.m.-9 p.m.

Bar Hours: Tuesday-Thursday 12 p.m.-12 a.m., Friday-Saturday 12 p.m.-12:30 a.m., Sunday 1 p.m.-11 p.m.

Reservations accepted (and recommended at peak times).

Lunch appetizers $5.95 to $9.95 and entrees $8.95 to $19.95, dinner appetizers $5.95 to $12.50 and entrees $10.95 to $19.95. Desserts $5.50 each or ice cream and sorbet from $4.95.

Wine $6 to $9 for the glass and $23 to $49 for the bottle.

Eight different draft beers at $4.50.

Di Mio

If Di Mio wants to attract Harvard diners, it certainly has its work cut out for it. First and foremost, it must differentiate itself from ‘Nochs, which many students regard as the be all and end all of Cambridge pizza establishments. Second, it needs to overcome its location on the oft-neglected stretch of Mass. Ave. between the Yard and Porter Square, which is usually frequented only by the most curious gourmands and Quadlings. After a Friday night visit to Di Mio, however, it quickly became apparent that the new gourmet pizzeria has what it takes to overcome these obstacles.

Unlike Noch’s and Tommy’s, who have cornered the market on late-night greasy snacks, Di Mio offers a slightly more upscale take on pizza, serving up gourmet Neapolitan-style pies in a sit-down setting. But despite the abundance of menu items such as Fiore di Latte mozzarella and fire-roasted fennel, Di Mio is as unpretentious as it gets, and thus far it seems to have established a niche for itself as a friendly, laid-back neighborhood pizzeria. It is filled with (gasp) actual Cambridge residents and offers sanctuary from the touristy Harvard-centrism of many Square establishments.

Di Mio is not the place to go for a greasy slice, but the 14” Basic Red ($9.95) is a good place to start for those suspicious of red onion jam and raisins on their pizza. The crust is thin and crispy, and the sauce has just enough garlic to satisfy the taste buds without making your breath lethal. A full list of specialty toppings ($3 each), ranging from grilled eggplant to smoked slab bacon, are available to spice up the basic pie—however, disastrous combinations may result. Kalamata olives, Great Hill Blue Cheese, and Julienne leeks may sound good on paper, but their combined forces can wreak havoc on your bowels.

Di Mio’s specialty pizzas are unusual and generally successful, and while they won’t break the bank, they certainly come at gourmet prices. A 20 note will buy you an 18” Pollo Diablo and the right to dictate the level of “Diablo” that you receive. The colorful pizza is smothered with grilled chicken, jalapenos, pineapple, Monterey Jack cheese and a chipotle barbeque sauce that certainly packs a punch. The heat is manageable, but there are too many competing flavors and the chipotle eventually becomes overpowering. The specialty Shrimp Scampi pie carries a $25 price tag, but the sophisticated combination of succulent Tiger shrimp and Pecorino Romano cheese make it a worthwhile splurge.

If pizza is not your thing, Di Mio also offers a choice of three satisfying paninis and a selection of salads big enough to feed a small army. The wine list is short but serviceable, with each vintage matching a specialty pizza. Import beers are limited ($3.50), so if you aren’t adverse to a meal sans alcohol, Di Mio’s own root beer and cream sodas are a good bet.

Nestled in a typically petite Cambridge space, Di Mio can be a tight squeeze for a big group, but what it lacks in roominess it makes up for in bright décor and ambience. The walls are an earthy orange color that blend into the exposed copper vents on the ceiling. Various paintings and photographs of Italy set the mood without being too cliché, and the open kitchen buzzes with busy staff shoving pizzas into the ovens. All of these factors, along with the allure of “gourmet” dining, make Di Mio a perfect venue for a first date. It is intimate without being intimidating and casual without being classless. And unlike eating at Pho Pasteur, a date at Di Mio won’t leave you exposed to the eyes of Harvard’s gossip hounds.

A stone’s throw from the Quad, and a brief walk from the Square, Di Mio is more than worth the trek. Online ordering is also available (www.dimiopizza.com) for the habitually lazy.

Di Mio (617) 492-1111

1782 Mass. Ave.

Monday-Wednesday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

Thursday-Saturday 11 a.m.-11 p.m.

Sunday 12 p.m.-10 p.m.

A Slam Dunk

Harvard’s finest are a-twitter about the newest specialty bistro to settle in Cambridge: Dunkin’ Donuts/Baskin Robbins. The world’s largest purveyor of baked goods and coffee offers a taste of middle America for McDonald’s-deprived students and those Harvard University Police Department officers who previously had to venture towards the Kennedy School of Government for their daily bread, er, donut.

One of 5,700 branches worldwide, Harvard’s own Dunkin’ Donuts sits a short stroll from the river Houses and the Yard, making it the perfect site for a between-class bite or Lamont study break. Patrons can enjoy a scrumptious greasy breakfast sandwich ($3.75 with a medium coffee) and need only wander over to the next counter for 31 flavors of dessert.

All the Dunkin’ Donuts favorites are present and accounted for—from cinnamon to powdered sugar to chocolate glazed—and all with the same reliable taste you remember from high school student council meetings. Though the dough is bone-dry, the sugars, glazes and frostings that coat each donut choice make the bready interior seem irrelevant. A warning against the strawberry frosted donuts: the pink icing is oh-so-cute, but the sprinkles are sugar overload. Don’t eat without milk nearby.

While many may gravitate toward classics like French crullers and Boston Kremes, the seasonal choices are the way to go this fall. Try the pumpkin donut, a muffin-like concoction with a gentle glaze of sugar, or the maple-frosted version. Adventurous diners should sample the apple cider donut, which actually tastes like the traditional Thanksgiving drink, albeit mixed with batter and deep-fried in lard. Not quite Grandma’s pie, but at $0.69 a donut, they’re worth testing. The $2.85 two-donuts-and-a-medium-coffee special makes for the ideal grab-and-go breakfast.

In addition to Dunkin’s namesake pastry, the chain offers a variety of bakery choices. The raspberry white chocolate scone, salsa bagel, cinnamon apple muffin and myriad danish offer many reasons to skip Au Bon Pain. The powder base in the hot chocolate, Dunkaccino and Vanilla Chai drinks requires a good deal of choking to imbibe, but the coffee is surprisingly potent and delicious. And, frankly, a box of Munchkins will make anyone Mr. Popular.

Of course, the biggest reason for many to feast at Dunkin’ Donuts may not be the muffins, but Good Will Hunting’s Matt Damon. Sitting at the corner table by the window, one can nibble their cruller and ponder: How do I like ’dem apples?

Dunkin’ Donuts/Baskin Robbins

1 Bow Street

Daily 6 a.m. to 12 a.m.