Smile Big
In Thailand, rice is considered an essential part of most meals. Overseas, anytime you order a dish—say, General Wong’s chicken—a ginormous portion of said chicken will arrive at your table laid atop a hearty bed of rice. Alas, the upscale Asian eateries of Harvard Square occasionally diverge from these Thai norms, dishing out less-than-filling portions at inflated prices. Not only are the entrees much pricier, rice is never included with your meal. For the Thai enthusiast seeking more bang for the buck, Smile Thai Café provides a nice alternative. The recently opened Thai eatery offers cheap food, fast service and an extensive menu that is sure to please even the pickiest palate (carnivorous and vegetarian alike). Its semi-secret location above the more popular Tanjore keeps crowds to a minimum—guests needn’t worry about divulging intimate secrets to others dining at a nearby tables. The elevated location, moreover, offers nice views of Kennedy School students sunbathing across the street.
After ascending the stairs, restaurant-goers enter an intimate dining area tastefully decorated with white Christmas lights and Thai artwork. Figures of two women carved from teak appear to dance on large black spoons that dangle from the wall. Fresh flowers decorate each table and larger displays of bright flora emerge out of flowerpots crafted from bamboo and twine. Animated images of Asian children wearing clothes straight from The Flintstone era adorn the walls, and piped in pop music plays softly in the background. Of course, the relaxed atmosphere isn’t the main draw of Smile—it’s the food and friendly service that keeps those in the know coming back for more.
Nick, the friendly manager who immigrated to the U.S. in 1984, runs the business operation and also acts as waiter. He immediately brings my research assistant (i.e.: a friend who wanted to capitalize on FM’s complimentary dinner) and I Thai Iced Teas, a dark orange and red concoction of Thai-grown red-leafed tea, specially brewed and blended with a rich swirl of evaporated milk. While bottomless drinks aren’t advertised, Nick is known to refill empty glasses without being asked.
Our dinner starts with Scallion Pancakes ($4.50)—glutinous rice flour stuffed with scallions and herbs, pan-fried until brown and served with ginger sauce. They arrive from the kitchen piping hot, served on a bright blue triangular dish. The pancakes live up to their posh presentation—they’re more savory and less greasy than their counterparts at the Kong. Smile’s other appetizer options include: golden triangles ($4.50), diced potato, onion and curry powder wrapped in a pastry roll; and tod mun ($4.95), minced shrimp and codfish mixed with Thai spices.
After licking the bowl clean of ginger sauce, it’s time for our entrees. My assistant opts for crabmeat fried rice ($6.65)—a mélange of fried rice, crabmeat, onions, scallions, egg, green peas and tomatoes. Noting that the portion is large enough to feed the entire nation of Thailand by itself, I order pineapple fried rice ($6)—a fruitier combination that more closely aligns with my personality. Chicken, shrimp, pineapples, raisins, eggs and a touch of curry powder entice me to devour the large portion despite my recent weight-loss pledge. Once again, the presentation makes the meal a little more special. The vegetables in our entrees are diced into shapes such as stars, and a large flower sits on the side of my plate, carved by hand from the fat end of a carrot.
Among the most popular dishes, Nick tells us, is the uber-spicy Ka-Prao ($8.95), which consists of sautéed ground meat served in Thai-style “hot basil” chili sauce. If you enjoy breathing fire, the Yum-Nuah Spicy Beef Salad ($8.95), grilled sliced beef mixed with chili paste, cucumbers, tomatoes, mushrooms, lemongrass and a lime juice dressing, is another spicy option. For the more mild of taste, however, stick to the less seasoned house specialties such as “Chicken in Love” ($6.95), deep-fried chicken on a bed of lettuce, topped with whole peanuts and peanut sauce. Love, after all, is never complete without fresh nuts.
Smile’s seafood offerings are similarly impressive. The “Seafood Honeymoon” marries shrimp, squid and scallops to pineapple, mushrooms and honey sauce for a reasonable $10.95. For the health conscious, the ginger salmon is a lean filet steamed with dry batter and topped with snow peas and assorted veggies.
If your spicy seafood honeymoon ends with your tongue seeking divorce, cool it off with one of Smile’s decadent desserts. My assistant—obviously a regular— demands we split the fried banana and ice cream dish ($3.25). Unmoved by the boring notion of banana and vanilla ice cream, I passively agree, and indifferently await the arrival of our generic dessert.
When it does, much to my surprise, my tongue greets the greatest pleasure it has ever known—not vanilla, but coconut and ginger ice cream topped with diced jack-fruit and ground peanuts. I search for the bananas and ultimately find them hidden within delicious fried pastries.
After my two-hour meal, I’ve been converted. I scurry off with my hunger satiated and my wallet still bulging (well, as much as a work-study wallet can bulge). While other Thai eateries consistently activate my gag reflex with their lack of value, I leave this restaurant with a Smile.
Smile Thai Café, 16-18 Eliot Street, (617) 497-8288. Open: Su-Th, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., F-Sa, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.