New England Offers Splendors

Free time at Harvard is a precious commodity. Between studying, socializing and the rigors of everyday life, it might seem impossible to find time to explore the world outside of Boston--even outside of Harvard--during your short stay in Cambridge.

But travelling in New England is not as difficult as you might think. And the sights you'll see--from picturesque maritime villages on the North Shore to gritty industrial downtowns in Boston's suburbs to stately Brahmin mansions in Newport--make taking a day off from Cambridge well worth your time.

Getting Around

You do not need a car to explore the Boston area. The Massachusetts Bay Transportation Authority (MBTA, or just the T), Amtrak and a number of bus lines make most of New England's attractions accessible for relatively low prices.

The MBTA's commuter rail--the "Purple Line"--operates out of two termini: North Station (on the Green and Orange Lines of the MBTA subway), and South Station (on the Red Line). From these stations, 11 lines radiate into Boston's suburbs, and throughout most of eastern Massachusetts.

Trains run frequently, and on weekends operate on a reduced schedule. Check the T's Web site--http://www.mbta.com--for the latest timetables. Fares vary according to how many zones your trip spans. The most expensive round-trip ticket comes to $9.50, but most destinations cost $6 or less.

Amtrak also departs from South Station, as do Greyhound, Bonanza and several other bus lines.

Historical New England

For history buffs, New England has no shortage of sights and museums.

The MBTA's new Plymouth line takes visitors south to the heart of the Old Colony. Plymouth ($8 round trip), home of the infamous Plymouth Rock and the Pilgrims' first permanent settlement in the New World, remains a vintage seaside port.

A reconstruction of the Mayflower and a preserved waterfront also grace Plymouth's harbor. The town pays homage to eastern Massachusetts' staple crop as the home of Cranberry World.

To the north, Salem ($5 round trip on the Rockport line) lives with the legacy of the Salem Witch Trails. The Salem Witch Museum--and a flourishing industry of witch-themed gift shops and tours--commemorate the 1693 trials.

Salem later prospered in the 19th century as its harbor became one of the busiest in the United States. The restored Customs House--former workplace of Salem native Nathaniel Hawthorne--presides over Pickering Wharf, now home to numerous shops and restaurants.

Hawthorne's birthplace and the House of Seven Gables, which inspired his novel of that name, sit side by side a few blocks from the Custom House.

Inland to the west of Salem, Lowell ($7 round trip on the Lowell line) was the first American city of the Industrial Revolution, and the now-restored factory buildings house a museum dedicated to the Industrial Age.

In Newport, RI (served by Greyhound), the financiers who profited from the Industrial Revolution built their summer "cottages"--giant stone mansions, most of which are now open to the public.

Shady, sloping streets cover College Hill in Providence ($9.50 on the Attleboro/Stoughton line), home of Brown University and the Rhode Island School of Design. Thayer Street, a downsized Haight-Ashbury, crowns College Hill.

Out There

Northern New England offers opportunities for hiking, camping and sightseeing aplenty.

The Presidential Range in northern New Hampshire is home to the world's worst weather, at the peak of Mt. Washington. Winter wind speeds of 231 mph have been recorded at the top of the 6,288-foot mountain.

In the summer the weather is a little tamer, and you can hike up to the summit or take a cog railway.

Straight out of a Norman Rockwell painting, the rustic villages of western Mass. are among the remaining outposts of small-town New England. Nestled in the rolling Berkshires, Greyhound serves Stockbridge, Williamstown and other towns in the area.

Meanwhile, Vermont to the north is dotted with antiques shops and picturesque Green Mountain hamlets, Vermont is ideal for hiking on the Appalachian Trail (AT) or biking on the state's wooded dirt roads. Home to the hippie capitalist empire of Ben & Jerry's, in Barre, Vermont is easily accessible by Vermont Transit, whose buses run frequently from South Station.

The largest New England state, Maine, boasts both a beautiful, lighthouse-studded coastline and majestic inland mountain peaks. The AT terminates at Mt. Katahdin, and shoreline ports at Kennebunk and Bar Harbor draw thousands of visitors annually. Tourists also flock to Freeport to shop at L.L. Bean.

Water, Water

The ocean has long been the lifeblood of the New England economy, and all along the coast fishing, whaling and shipping ports testify to the crucial role the sea has played in the history of the region.

Along the North Shore, Gloucester ($7.50 round trip on the T's Rockport line) was once a major fishing center. Today the town fills with beach-goers in the summer.

Just to the north, Rockport ($8 round trip) sits at the end of Cape Ann, a windswept village replete with beaches and a shopping promenade.

Whaling formed the backbone of the New Bedford (Bonanza bus lines, $20 round trip) economy in the 19th century, and today the fishing fleet continues to anchor in the harbor.

New Bedford, along with Nantucket, which is accessible by ferry from Woods Hole ($25 round trip on Bonanza), were the two largest whaling ports in the United States before the decline of the industry in the second half of the 19th century.

For the intrepid, a two-hour ride on Amtrak from South Station brings you to Mystic, Conn. ($50 round trip), home of Mystic Seaport. The Seaport is an outdoor maritime museum, home to the last whaling ship in existence, the Morgan.

Mystic is also home to Mystic Aquarium, one of the largest in the country, and of Mystic Pizza, immortalized in a Julia Roberts movie of the same name.

Don't miss the opportunity to get out on the water yourself. Ferries ply the waters between Boston and numerous small islands in Massachusetts Bay. Several groups run whale-watch cruises from Rockport and Gloucester on Cape Ann, and other leave from Cape Cod. Expect to spend about $25 for the trip.

Branching Off

Don't feel constrained to visit the closest or most famous corners of the region. All of New England drips with history, and breathtaking scenery isn't confined to what you can find in the pages of a guide book.

Sometimes the most rewarding travel comes when you just resolve to escape the gravity of the Square and go wherever the T takes you.

So put down the book--your Summer School grades don't really matter--hop on the train and get out. You'll be glad you did.

--Gregory S. Krauss contributed to the reporting of this story