S'HABILLER en noir

BLACK AND BLUES 89 holland st. somerville 628-0046

Although the name conjures up images of the battered and bruised, 'Black and Blues' is actually a nearby retailer of eclectic new and used clothing. Since owner Chris Griffin (affectionately known as C.J.) opened shop in Davis Square six years ago, the store has become a favorite of bargain-hungry Tufts and Harvard students.

Though it specializes in leather jackets and jeans, 'Black and Blues' sells everything from vests to boots to silver jewelry. The selection is great and prices can't be beat, but the store is difficult to navigate. New and used articles inhabit the same racks, retro club-gear and draw-string linen pants hang side by side. Piles of shoeboxes appear randomly and without warning.

The decor is equally incoherent. Rusty license plates and an old clock advertising dog food hang alongside the display of Calvin Klein hosiery. Outside the dressing rooms looms a bizarre vintage shoe-shine chair, and in the back of the store, a fine antique wooden armoire is surrounded by pairs and pairs of Doc Martens.

For shoppers who can overcome this juxtaposition of styles, `Black and Blues' is a haven of good buys. The store boasts more than 300 pairs of Levi's for prices as low as $18. (C.J. is a Levi's expert of sorts--he immediately recognizes my pair as the new 517's.) Jeans abound in every size, shape, and color--not only are their lovably frayed 70s leftovers for the vintage lovers out there, but even stone-washed 80s style dungarees for the fashion clueless. Customers bored with traditional denim can choose from velvet, suede, and corduroy varieties. Faux-suede pants in black, blue, brown, and tan ($28) seem to be a current in-house trend.

The diverse selection of leather jackets covers a wider price range. For the next "Leather and Lace" or "Boogie Nights" theme party, one can find cheap (around $30 to 40) vinyl-looking jackets to pair with tight rayon shirts. Bomber jackets and motorcycle styles hover in the middle price range, selling for approximately $100. `Black and Blues' rescues the more fashion-conscious client with two chic coats from Kenneth Cole's 'Reaction' line, $255 and $275 respectively. But leather isn't just for jackets anymore--a wild leopard-print zipfront leather dress hanging behind the cash register is quick to catch the eye.

Apart from jeans and leather, the clothing is an amalgamation of pieces that Griffin has picked up on weekly trips to New York wholesalers. (He doesn't buy clothes directly from individual shoppers, so leave those old sweaters at home.) Currently, much of the women's clothing sadly seems geared toward those with eating disorders. Even in so-called `size large,' a tiny lime-colored slip-dress ($24) barely covers the essentials. Access's velvet LBDs ($28) and silvery separates by Ceduxion ($24) share the same minimalist proportions.

Nevertheless, 'Black and Blues' deserves credit for selling some genuinely wearable women's fashions. C.J. has apparently taken note of the sequin fad, displaying a cutesy beaded sweater by Karavan in violet and ivory for $30. Another good look is the black semi-sheer button-down shirt and matching skirt ($26 each) by Gaze.

Like the clothing, the shoes sold at 'Black and Blues' follow a somewhat illogical mix of styles. The majority of shoes are hard-core Doc Martens and combat boot look-alikes such as Angels' shiny crimson interpretation ($110). On the other hand, one can find hippie gear like the Brazilian walking shoe ($48) and several pairs of clogs ($45 to $58). For those planning to make a preppier statement with their footwear, the store offers black Paloma mules ($58), as well as open-toed sandals by Steve Madden ($55).

`Black and Blues's dressing rooms are an experience unto themselves. C.J. has sectioned off a corner of the store and enclosed it in brown crushed-velvet curtains. The problem with this solution is that the thick material blocks the light from entering the shower-stall sized compartments. And after an attempt at changing in this cramped, unlit space, the shopper must (potentially risking embarrassment) emerge into the store to check the look with a mirror.

Despite its random clothing selection and diminuitive dressing rooms, 'Black and Blues' is a one-of-a-kind find. First of all, prices are incredibly low, especially when compared to the typical Harvard Square boutique. Next, the store is only a hop, skip and a jump from the Davis T-stop, and it's located next to a tempting bakery, "Salt and Pepper's," where the indulgent can grab a post-shopping treat. Furthermore, C.J. will win over even the toughest-to-please clients with his charming smile and friendly (but not overbearing) approach.