New England Towns Provide Quiet Alternative

Spring break is approaching and the Great Panic begins. Want to escape the Square but avoid the hassle of travel agents and big-buck airfare? Take advantage of Boston's central locale and explore the wonders of historic New England.

Within hours, car, bus or train can transport you to splendid coastal vistas, verdant rolling mountains or quaint historic towns. Whether you're seeking an athletic adventure, an intellectual pursuit or a shopping extravaganza, these prime destinations will not disappoint. They're easily accessible and decidedly refreshing. So hop in a car and take off. With no language barriers or fear of lost luggage, nothing could be easier.

Newport, Rhode Island

Feeling cramped in your dorm room? Cure the claustrophobia with a waltz through the luxurious Newport mansions, former homes to the rich and famous. The estate-lined Bellevue Avenue combines the charm of the Victorian Era with the splendor of the sea. Stay at a charming bed-and-breakfast (B&B) tucked along the avenue and indulge in the decadence of the Victorian Age. If anything, this brief encounter with age-old opulence will inspire you to study harder.

The town itself offers a wealth of classy harbor shops and restaurants. There are also museums to satisfy the intellectual appetite, including the Tennis Hall of Fame. The Cliff Walk is a rocky three-mile coastal promenade offering exquisite views of the mansions, but if your feet are feeling tired, treat yourself to a boat ride and view the impressive facades while cruising the sea.

Ivy Lodge--Designed by Stanford White, famous architect of the Gilded Age, this is the only B&B in the mansion district. Though decidedly smaller than the mansions, this charming masterpiece matches their elegance with its gables and Gothic turret. $100-165. (401) 849-6865.

The Inn at Castle Hill--Built as a summer home for the renowned scientist Alexander Agassiz, this large, castlesque inn stands in proud isolation from the chaotic Newport center. Situated on a private forty-acre peninsula with its own private beach. $50-$180. (401) 849-3800.

Mystic, Connecticut

Better known for its pizza than for its traditional seaworthy fame, Mystic is still a favorite destination. Located along the southeastern coast of Connecticut, the town is as enticing as its name. Even if you didn't like the Julia Roberts movie, don't write Mystic off your list. It's ships galore, but you need not be a sailor to enjoy the maritime paradise. Mystic Seaport, the nation's largest maritime museum (and commonly mistaken name for the town) is a perfect introduction to the 18th and 19th century shipping port. If you prefer sealife to seaware, visit the neighboring aquarium. Or a slice of pizza from Mystic Pizza is always an option.

Red Brook Inn--Located 20 minutes from the bustling Mystic Port, this B&B is a pleasant retreat if you're sick of the sea. Colonial in style and perfect in charm. $95-185. (203) 572-0349.

The Whaler's Inn--More of a revamped country hotel than a quaint B&B, this three-building complex lies on the banks of the Mystic River. Its central location is welcome for the weary traveller and its much acclaimed Italian restaurant Bravo Bravo is a selling point for the hungry. $99-130. (203) 539-1506.

Sandwich, Cape Cod, Mass.

Sandwich is Cape Cod's oldest town and has more charm than its gastronomical name implies. Seventeenth and 18th century houses, as well as an array of antique shops, line the quiet street. Visit the Sandwich Glass Museum and discover examples of Sandwich's trademark craft. Heritage Plantation provides an interesting collection of mini-museums and gardens, and the Sandwich Boardwalk promises a beautiful walk along the sandy dunes. If you're feeling lazy, Old King's Highway (Route 6a) provides a scenic drive through some of the best-preserved New England towns, including Chatham and Yarmouth. Use Sandwich as a base and explore the entire hook of the Cape. Biking is also a popular means of transporta- tion, and there are a plethora of paths.

Captain Ezra Nye House--Despite the complicatedname, this B&B is a simple establishment, brimmingwith hospitality. $70-170. (508) 888-1415

Isaiah Jones Homestead--A high-ceilingedVictorian masterpiece, this B&B is located alongSandwich's main street and is the quintessence ofcharm--breakfast is served by candlelight.$95-165. (508) 888-9115.

Marblehead and Salem, Mass.

If you're sick of Mass. Ave. traffic andhigh-rise buildings, or just want to see cleanwater, take a quick 45-minute drive to Marblehead.The only objects obstructing the horizon aresailboat masts. Located along the North Shore,Marblehead is a quaint historic harbor town andbirthplace of the U.S. Navy. The narrow serpentinestreets of Old Marblehead teem with history andhouse exquisite boutiques that would appeal to thetastes of Martha Stewart.

Harbor Light Inn--One of the classiest inns onthe entire North Shore, this Colonial style B&Blocated in the heart of Marblehead blends historywith hospitality and is guaranteed to delight.$90-185. (781) 631-2186.

Harborside House--Built in 1850, HarborsideHouse offers a splendid view of the harbor. Thelong-time owner is particularly welcoming. $60-85.(781) 631-1032.

Salem, Mass.

Travel 10 minutes from Marblehead and arrive inSalem, the City of Witchcraft. Visit the SalemWitch Museum and the House of Seven Gables, placesyou've read about in history texts and novels.Browse the shops along Pickering Wharf, but mostimportantly, don't miss out on Harbor Sweets, homeof New England's gourmet chocolates.

Amelia Payson Guest House--Its superb centrallocation makes this B&B the best place to stay inSalem. $75-95. (978) 283-2080.

Williamstown, Mass.

Williamstown, home to Williams College, is aperfect destination for students who are curiousabout the rustic college setting they missed outon by attending Harvard. The town provides exactlywhat Cambridge lacks--tranquility and isolation.The B&Bs are cozy, and if you cam rouse yourselfout of bed, the art museum at Williams houses awonderful collection.

Field Farm--This unusual B&B more closelyresembles a Frank Lloyd Wright creation than atypical Berkshire abode. Its sprawling geometricshape spans the 296-acre privately owned grounds,complete with pond, pool, tennis courts and skitrails. Formerly owned by an art collector, thisunique modern estate is a different twist on thetraditional B&B. $75-90. (413) 458-3135.

River Bend Farm--Built by one of the foundingfathers of Williamstown in 1770, this former farmretains the charm of its time period with antiquefurniture and homey interior decoration. Specialbonuses include a river for canoeing. $80-100.(413) 458-5504.

Jackson, New Hampshire

Conveniently located near the outlet malls ofNorth Conway, yet far enough away to retain thecharm and tranquility of a New England town,Jackson is a convening point for all sportingactivities. There's plenty of opportunity forhiking or skiing. Wildcat Mountain, Black Mountainand Attitash are all within driving distance. Mt.Washington is located 15 miles north and canprovide some challenging hikes, even for the car.The panoramic view of the surrounding PresidentialMountains is decidedly worth the climb. PinkhamNotch is a favorite spot among hikers, with itstrails that wind beneath ravines, including thefamous Tuckerman's Ravine, known for its springskiing. (Contact the Appalachian Mountain Club formore information.)

Inn at Thorne Hill--This year-roundestablishment is popular for its romantic appeal.Dinners by candlelight provide an especiallyintimate atmosphere. The mansion is renowned forits exquisite New England cuisine and maintains anideal location just outside the town center.$110-210. (603) 383-4242.

Snowvillage Inn--Located in Snowville, this B&Bis nestled on the side of Mt. Foss and isdistinguishable by its 1,000-foot elevation.Snowvillage offers splendid views of thePresidential Range. The environment isintellectually stimulating as well--each room isnamed for a different literary figure and isequipped with works by the author.

Deer Isle and Mt. Desert Island, Maine

Deer Isle and Mt. Desert Island are Maine's twolargest islands. While Mt. Desert Island has beendiscovered by eager tourists, Deer Isle hasremained relatively isolated from tourist traffic.Still, Bar Harbour--the "19th-century resortturned 20th-century tourist town" located on Mt.Desert's eastern shore--is a source of immenseentertainment and deserves to be explored,especially the restaurants. One can't leavewithout a plate of fiery red lobster or bowl ofthick chowder. Bar Harbor can be unduly expensive,so it's best to seek shelter on the quieter westside, known as Southwest Harbor. The AcadiaNational Park offers easy as well as rigoroushiking trails with scenic lake and mountain views.Bikes and canoes can also be rented.

If you're bargain shopper, don't forgetB-7TOWNSIllustrationRachel E. Kramer

Captain Ezra Nye House--Despite the complicatedname, this B&B is a simple establishment, brimmingwith hospitality. $70-170. (508) 888-1415

Isaiah Jones Homestead--A high-ceilingedVictorian masterpiece, this B&B is located alongSandwich's main street and is the quintessence ofcharm--breakfast is served by candlelight.$95-165. (508) 888-9115.

Marblehead and Salem, Mass.

If you're sick of Mass. Ave. traffic andhigh-rise buildings, or just want to see cleanwater, take a quick 45-minute drive to Marblehead.The only objects obstructing the horizon aresailboat masts. Located along the North Shore,Marblehead is a quaint historic harbor town andbirthplace of the U.S. Navy. The narrow serpentinestreets of Old Marblehead teem with history andhouse exquisite boutiques that would appeal to thetastes of Martha Stewart.

Harbor Light Inn--One of the classiest inns onthe entire North Shore, this Colonial style B&Blocated in the heart of Marblehead blends historywith hospitality and is guaranteed to delight.$90-185. (781) 631-2186.

Harborside House--Built in 1850, HarborsideHouse offers a splendid view of the harbor. Thelong-time owner is particularly welcoming. $60-85.(781) 631-1032.

Salem, Mass.

Travel 10 minutes from Marblehead and arrive inSalem, the City of Witchcraft. Visit the SalemWitch Museum and the House of Seven Gables, placesyou've read about in history texts and novels.Browse the shops along Pickering Wharf, but mostimportantly, don't miss out on Harbor Sweets, homeof New England's gourmet chocolates.

Amelia Payson Guest House--Its superb centrallocation makes this B&B the best place to stay inSalem. $75-95. (978) 283-2080.

Williamstown, Mass.

Williamstown, home to Williams College, is aperfect destination for students who are curiousabout the rustic college setting they missed outon by attending Harvard. The town provides exactlywhat Cambridge lacks--tranquility and isolation.The B&Bs are cozy, and if you cam rouse yourselfout of bed, the art museum at Williams houses awonderful collection.

Field Farm--This unusual B&B more closelyresembles a Frank Lloyd Wright creation than atypical Berkshire abode. Its sprawling geometricshape spans the 296-acre privately owned grounds,complete with pond, pool, tennis courts and skitrails. Formerly owned by an art collector, thisunique modern estate is a different twist on thetraditional B&B. $75-90. (413) 458-3135.

River Bend Farm--Built by one of the foundingfathers of Williamstown in 1770, this former farmretains the charm of its time period with antiquefurniture and homey interior decoration. Specialbonuses include a river for canoeing. $80-100.(413) 458-5504.

Jackson, New Hampshire

Conveniently located near the outlet malls ofNorth Conway, yet far enough away to retain thecharm and tranquility of a New England town,Jackson is a convening point for all sportingactivities. There's plenty of opportunity forhiking or skiing. Wildcat Mountain, Black Mountainand Attitash are all within driving distance. Mt.Washington is located 15 miles north and canprovide some challenging hikes, even for the car.The panoramic view of the surrounding PresidentialMountains is decidedly worth the climb. PinkhamNotch is a favorite spot among hikers, with itstrails that wind beneath ravines, including thefamous Tuckerman's Ravine, known for its springskiing. (Contact the Appalachian Mountain Club formore information.)

Inn at Thorne Hill--This year-roundestablishment is popular for its romantic appeal.Dinners by candlelight provide an especiallyintimate atmosphere. The mansion is renowned forits exquisite New England cuisine and maintains anideal location just outside the town center.$110-210. (603) 383-4242.

Snowvillage Inn--Located in Snowville, this B&Bis nestled on the side of Mt. Foss and isdistinguishable by its 1,000-foot elevation.Snowvillage offers splendid views of thePresidential Range. The environment isintellectually stimulating as well--each room isnamed for a different literary figure and isequipped with works by the author.

Deer Isle and Mt. Desert Island, Maine

Deer Isle and Mt. Desert Island are Maine's twolargest islands. While Mt. Desert Island has beendiscovered by eager tourists, Deer Isle hasremained relatively isolated from tourist traffic.Still, Bar Harbour--the "19th-century resortturned 20th-century tourist town" located on Mt.Desert's eastern shore--is a source of immenseentertainment and deserves to be explored,especially the restaurants. One can't leavewithout a plate of fiery red lobster or bowl ofthick chowder. Bar Harbor can be unduly expensive,so it's best to seek shelter on the quieter westside, known as Southwest Harbor. The AcadiaNational Park offers easy as well as rigoroushiking trails with scenic lake and mountain views.Bikes and canoes can also be rented.

If you're bargain shopper, don't forgetB-7TOWNSIllustrationRachel E. Kramer