shoppin

Look up "Mom-and-Pop drugstore" in the dictionary. If Billings & Stover Apothecaries isn't pictured, it ought to be. The unremarkable storefront at 41A Brattle St. is easily disregarded and certainly no competition for the brightly lit establishments of Brattle Square. But from those who notice it, Billings & Stover will elicit a nostalgic smile. Even the small tin milk carts and bottles that dress the windows seem quaint, not tacky.

Stepping through the door, one enters a schizophrenic barber shop. The single aisle has counters on either side: one sports old-fashioned toiletries, while the other is a condensed CVS. This is the place Harvard gentlemen shop for for an elegant shaving-cream brush (real beaver-fur brushes sell for $40 to 100). The store will also satisfy any student obsessed with hair care: over forty different hairbrushes are discreetly displayed behind glass.

The casual shopper will find more perfume at Billings & Stover than in a duty-free store, while the back wall is dedicated to a pharmacy/apothecary. The right side of the aisle, on the other hand, could be mistaken for any other drug-store in the Square, though the occasional oddities, like Santa Claus troll dolls, are tucked here and there.

But Billings & Stover is far more than a drugstore, however unconventional. As a sign in the window proclaims: "We make our own fudge with real cream and butter." Weight-watchers, beware. But students who can tolerate a bit of self-indulgence now and then should visit for the fudge alone. The melt-in-your-mouth sensation is well worth the trip, and at $7.89 per lb., this is a sweet deal. A tiny morsel of this fudge goes a long way; a pound would create a heart problem.

Apart from the traditionalist's favorite, chocolate, the selection of fudge flavors is remarkably large: vanilla, rocky road, maple, mint chocolate chip, creamsicle, chocolate peanut butter and walnut are a few tasty choices. The ever-ambiguous flavor of the month adds a bit of surprise for regulars. If affecting a cosmopolitan air is a priority, then there's always cappuccino or penuchi fudge. Should Mom and Dad enjoy the eats during a visit, these wonderfully calorie-packed concoctions are also available nation-wide, thanks to Billings & Stover's mail-order service (order forms are on the counter or call (617) 547-0502).

If the fudge selection is not enough to satisfy that hyperactive sweet tooth, or if the need for a tasty beverage arises, Billings & Stover also features a soda fountain complete with banana splits ($4.59) and root beer floats ($2.45). A truly New England establishment, Billings & Stover makes the distinction between a frappe (with ice cream) and a shake (without ice cream), a detail which just adds to the charm.

The friendly establishment's retro staff and relaxed atmosphere make Billings & Stover Apothecaries quite a find in an otherwise commercial area of Cambridge. Enjoy the sweet aroma of fudge and the conversation of unpretentious regulars who just come to catch up on family news and sip coffee (85) at the store's one table. While it's not the cheapest place in the Square for snacks, visitors will find it well worth the price.