Tea Stop

Ancient Chinese legend says that the emperor Shen Nung was in his garden sipping a cup of hot water almost 5,000 years ago when a leaf from a tea bush accidentally fell into his cup.

Tasting the concoction, the emperor found it to be a considerable improvement over plain water. Shen Nung revealed the discovery to his people, and the phenomenon of tea drinking began.

Whether or not this story is true, it indicates tea's longtime association with royalty and nobility. Although tea is reknowned for its curative powers, it also exudes a certain elegance.

In the nineteenth century, an English Duchess of Bedford combined both qualities in seeking a remedy for her mid-afternoon "sinking feeling." She began the tradition of afternoon teas with fine pastries, allowing her to revive her spirits in style.

Afternoon teas are still a primarily English phenomenon. Many Americans are unfamiliar with the pleasantries that afternoon tea provides--or they envision afternoon tea as a luxury reserved for the idle rich.

But the tradition needn't be restricted to the other side of the Atlantic. Afternoon tea is available and affordable at many locations through-out the Boston-Cambridge area and even right on campus.

For a sit-down tea, your best bet is the Four Seasons Hotel (200 Boylston Street, Boston). Its Bristol Lounge is open everyday from 3 to 4:30 p.m. for a full tea, a light tea or just tea and scones.

The full tea ($15 per person) is an extravaganza of delectable sandwiches, tasty pastries and fine "loose" (not bagged) teas served in quantities that could satisfy most Harvard students' hearty appetites. particularly notable are the fresh, warmed scones and the savory salmon sandwiches.

The light tea, which does not include sandwiches, is $10.50, and tea and scones cost $8.50.

Other highlights of tea at the Four Seasons include the plush lounge chairs and the view of the Public Garden from the Bristol Lounge.

The Ritz-Carlton Hotel (15 Arlington Street, Boston) also serves a delicious afternoon tea but it has a higher price, a stodgier atmosphere and smaller servings than the Four Seasons.

At the Ritz, tea is served from 3 p.m. until 5:30 p.m. every day. The full tea is $16.50 and light tea without sandwiches is $12.50. A la carte service is also available.

If you do go to the Ritz, dress nicely: denim isn't allowed. One bonus is the harpist, who plays most days from 3:30 to 5 p.m.

If taking the T to the Arlington stop on the Green Line is too much trouble, your tea quest needn't be aborted: several fine sources of afternoon tea exist right in Cambridge.

The Blacksmith House Bakery and Cafe (56 Brattle Street) serves afternoon tea from 3 p.m. until 5 p.m. daily. For $5.50, you can get a pot of tea, scones, jam, whipped cream and strawberries. Pastries, cakes and sandwiches are available at an additional cost.

But the tea at the Black-smith House, unlike that served at the Four Seasons and the Ritz, is bagged--so it picks up the smell of its packaging and goes stale quickly.

Also, the Blacksmith House lacks the plush ambience of the Ritz and the Four Seasons. But some might actually prefer its homey New England atmosphere.

Afternoon teas are also served right here at Harvard. Adams House has an elegant tea every Friday in the Masters' house at 4:30 p.m.; Lowell house has a Masters' tea on Thursdays at 5 p.m. and the Signet society hosts Friday teas at 5:30 p.m. (It's a good idea to arrive with a Lowell or Adams resident, or a Signet Society member).

But if you prefer the privacy of your common room, organizing your own afternoon tea is easy and affordable.

The Coffee Connection (36 JFK Street) is a nearby and inexpensive source of loose tea.

To make the tea, put one teaspoonful of tea in the pot for every cup of tea you want to make. Next, pour cold water from the tap (it's fresher than hot water) into a kettle and bring the water to a vigorous boil. Otherwise, the water won't be hot enough to release the full flavor of the tea.

Pour the heated water onto the leaves. The tea should be ready for serving in about five minutes. Use a strainer to keep the leaves in the pot.

Sugar and milk are nice additions to your tea. But avoid cream--its strong flavor overpowers the tea.

Scones and pastries for your tea can be purchased at the Blacksmith House.