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Swimming in Grease

For the Moment

By Joshua D. Fine

It's one of their biggest days of the year. They rise early Sunday morning and arrive at the river by five. Situating themselves at a strategic spot near the river, they set up their trailers and brace.

The Hub's purveyors of Polish sausages provide a crucial service to the spectators at the Head of the Charles Regatta and they work hard.

"It's a hard day," said Kevin Indigarn who has been selling sausages at the Head for five years.

Fifteen Minutes was able to take Indigarn away from his hungry customers for just a few seconds. While answering questions, he frantically stuffed buns with sausages, handed out Diet Cokes, collected money and gave change. We weren't so lucky with other vendors. A woman frying dough was too busy even to give her name. "Go to the guy at the sausages," she said, eyeing her skillet to make sure not to overfry anything.

Even Indigarn was reluctant to talk. "Are you with the competition?" he said. Despite the long lines of customers, Indigarn said profits have been down the past few years. He blamed the sagging sausage sales on the economy and "the argument of health."

"There is a more educated and more health conscious crowd [at Head of the Charles]," said Indigarn. His vending team sells sausages, fries and fried dough.

Not all of the spectators at the Head of the Charles concerned themselves with cholesterol and fat. "Real junk," said one woman as she was handed a sausage generously topped with heaps of sauteed onions. She smiled at the meal in her hands, paid for it and began to eat it on the way back to her spot.

Further down the river, vendors were offering a healthier? alternative: "Marinated Chicken Breast Grilled with Onions and Peppers Served in a Pita Pocket," according to a large yellow and green sign. They also offered Soft Tortilla Tacos. The booth was in the midst of accommodating a small mob when Fifteen Minutes came by. "Come back later," said one of the vendors as he furiously removed chicken from boxes and brushed the meat with sauce. "We'll probably settle down by three. I can talk to you then," he said. Fifteen Minutes returned to the scene at 3:30 only to find an even longer line and vendors with even less patience.

Vending at the Head of the Charles is important work, according to Indigarn. Scraping grease from his fryer he said, "For most vendors, it's the last day of the year."

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