Making Waves at your First Interview

Forget your resume. Forget astronomical GMAT scores, forget a Group I academic ranking, forget graduating first in your class at Harvard Business School.

The trick to landing a job on Wall Street these days is much more simple.

It's what you wear.

Sure, you founded your own business at age five and have held phenominal summer internships at every investment bank this side of Tokyo. But when recruiters are bombarded day after day by equally qualified applicants wearing identical navy pin-stripe suits, they're looking for a little bit more.

Fashion accessories and a splash of personal style can distinguish you from the other boring business suits, adding that special spark that makes your first impression a lasting one.

"Your clothing should not be wild, but you want to have something that will make you memorable," says Stacey Matthews, a recruiter for Solomon Brothers in Boston.

Though most recruiters do recommend standard gray or navy business suits for men and women alike, they say accessories like jewelry, ties and scarves can reflect individuality and style.

FOR MEN

Men may think their fashion options are confined to the ordinary gray wool suit that varies only by number of buttons.

But choosing the right tie and suspenders or even opting for a subtle pattern--like a quiet hounds tooth or light pinstripe--can transform a business suit from the Wall Street uniform into a personal statement of style.

A tie with an offbeat pattern can lend sophistication to a conventional and lifeless gray men's suit, just as a bow tie can add a touch of individual pizzazz.

Tie patterns fade in and out of style, with paisleys, stripes, dots and floras taking turns as either to-die-for necessities or the epitome of tackiness.

"Ties are important," says Jodi M. Neri of KNF & T Temps, an employment agency. "Florals or stripes are good, but they must be on the conservative side and tasteful."

Bowties are less common than neckties for interview wear, but not a faux pas. According to Susan Lindstrom, a recruiter with Price Waterhouse in Boston, bow ties are "not uncommon," and can make a favorable impression if they reflect the interviewee's character.

FOR WOMEN

Women have wider guidelines in choosing career wear to reflect individual style. Accessories, dresses and even a not-so-conventional colored suit can all be outlets for personal style.

Never settle for the boring. A tasteful brooch on a lapel, a pleasantly patterned scarf, earrings and bracelets, carefully and not too heavy-handed makeup can all jazz up the ordinary.

But it's important not to go overboard, says Judy E. Murray, a recruiting coordinator at the Office of Career Services. Chains, pearls and other conservative styles of jewelry are better and more professional than "long and dangling" or ornate earrings, Murray says.

In addition to the staple business suit, dresses are also an option for women. Dresses with simple, streamlined cuts, such as the ever-popular coatdress, yield a professional look.

Pants are another option, although recruiters advise against women wearing pants suits--no matter how stylish or professional looking--to a first interview or meeting.

For both men and women, the tried-and-true way to make a good impression is to pattern your clothes after what your interviewer will likely wear.

"It's most important to be comfortable," said Murray, who advocates a conservative approach to corporate fashion. "When you go to a recruiting session, you should see how the people giving the presentation dress."

According to Murray, a job seeker should "think about the industry" before choosing a wardrobe. While corporate jobs like consulting and accounting generally mandate traditional business wear, other careers, such as retail, accept more modish apparel.

And though most concur that gray and navy is the safest way to go in choosing a suit, corporate fashion is slowly widening to include a broader spectrum of colors.

Earth tones--olives, creams and tans--are growing more popular for both sexes. Women should feel free to experiment with more daring colors and patterns as well.

Women can safely choose from deep purple, burgundy, forest green and even a fiery red. For patterns, almost anything except florals can substitute for solid colors.

But overall appearance can overpower any individual piece of clothing, no matter how dapper your accessories. Even Armani can't save you if your hair stands on end and your fingernails haven't been clipped since you left home for college.

"Both men and women should be conscious of personal grooming because there is no substitute for neatness," says Lindstrom.

The Price Waterhouse pamphlet on how to prepare for an interview stresses the "professional look" and advocates neatness, even at the expense of personal style. Other tips include etiquette advice, like never smoking even if offered a cigarette.

Of course, your resume will ultimately pull more weight in landing a job than an Hermes scarf. ("When it comes down to it, it's what you can do and not what you can wear," says Matthews at Solomon Brothers).

But in a world where competition is fierce and the job market is tight, that extra accessory or last-minute shoe shine may very well make the difference.

And if you're still in a fashion quandary, "let your own tastes be your guide," says Lindstrom.