Gape at Gold Pianos, Or Look at Art Instead

So you've finally experienced the ultimate in Elvismania--Graceland.

You've gaped in awe at the gold piano, carefully scrutinized the Jungle Room and paid a visit to Sun Studios, where he recorded those famous tunes.

You step outside into the bright sunlight, blink for a second and realize that you have days left in Memphis, Tennessee. What do you do now?

For your information, there's more to Memphis than Elvis and Graceland.

If you've just left Graceland, your first stop should be the Great American Pyramid, Memphis' new sports coliseum on the banks of the Mississippi right nearby. And if it's summer, glide over the river on the monorail and enjoy yourself in the Riverwalk at Mud Island.

The Mid-America Mall, the world's largest pedestrian mall, is also right in the area for mall rats who need a change of pace.

The famous Peabody Hotel is right around the corner. Check it out at 11 a.m. or 5 p.m. to see a few very well-trained ducks march on a red carpet to the lobby's fountain and swim around.

For museums, get on Poplar Avenue and head toward the Pink Palace Museum--one of the few museums in the world that still has lots of buttons to PUSH. If you visit in late spring, they'll have much-hyped Etruscan exhibit. If not, stop by on a weekend and see the miniature circus.

Don't miss the National Civil Rights Museum, near downtown Memphis. Cybill Shephard and Jesse Jackson aren't there anymore, but it's still a great place to spend an afternoon.

History buffs should also drop by the Chucalissa Indian Reservation and view some real sand paintings.

Tired of the museums? Stop in at just one more, the Brooks Art Gallery in Midtown, on your way to the Memphis Zoo. Enter through a very ostentatious, very Egyptian entrance gate and spend the day gawking at animals.

If you need a break from the touring, try a picnic of just a walk in Overton Park--just watch out for stray golf balls.

You'll probably get hungry at some point during your stay in the city. No problem. Memphis has plenty of fine dining establishments. Just don't leave Memphis without experiencing Memphis barbecue. The downtown Rendezvous, which delivered ribs to the King himself, boasts atmosphere, but Corky's, on the other side of town, has better food.

If you just want a quick bite, hit Huey's on Madison for a burger or get a brownie a la mode at the North End.

You can get terrific Cajun food for a great price at Cafe Roux. If money is no object, get dressed up and head out to Dux or Chez Phillipe in the Peabody Hotel.

For dessert, the Cafe Expresso is a must--the extra pounds will be worth it. Another dessert (or breakfast) choice is La Baguette Bakery. It's just a hole in the wall, but the pastries and bread are from heaven (or France, if you want to be picky).

If you want food and drink--a real Memphis experience--walk along Beale Street after dark. Memphis' "other" music isn't country but blues straight from the Delta. B.B. King's or the Rum Boogie Cafe are good picks, or you can just wander around and listen. You won't be bored.

For dancing, look for the Omni/New Daisy or perhaps 616, which claims to be "as close to New York as it gets." But remember that you're in the Bible Belt. A recent Memphis magazine poll found "Dancing is the work of the devil!" to be a popular response to the "Best Place for Dancing" question.

Avoid the Mall of Memphis or Hickory Ridge Mall unless you really need to see another mall. Instead, try the beautiful, relaxing Oak Court and enjoy a cup of frozen yogurt. (Ice cream isn't big around these parts.)

If you want to see all of Memphis, just get in your car and drive. Watch the landscape change from the downtown business district to the busy streets and quiet homes of Midtownto the beautiful--and expensive--surroundings of East Memphis.

Germantown has the biggest houses, the highest per capita income and the most fastidious taste. It rejected the new national Shell station decor because it was tacky. Cordova--which may or may not be part of Memphis--is just a little livelier. Raleigh, Bartlett and Frayser claim not to be hick suburbs, but you should go see for yourself.

Be prepared for the unexpected in Memphis. The only certainty of Memphis weatheris that it will be hot in July and August. TheCity has been known to experience tanning weather,snow and highs in the 80s during the same week.Bring both sweatshirts and stores.

By the way, Memphis drivers are insane. Carsstop for pedestrians in Cambridge; in Memphis,drivers truly believe that society would be betteroff without stupid jaywalkers. Even the streetsare weird, changing names at several points (unionchanges to Walnut Grove, Ridgeway to HickoryHill.)

Just remember: If you find yourself on a roadwithout any street signs, you're not in theTwilight Zone-you're on Elvis Presley Boulevard.Tell yourself you ain't nothin' but a houn' dawgand speed along