Buffalo Galore

Wyoming is a great place to visit, but you wouldn't want to live there. Unless, of course, you prefer buffalo to humans.

Not that there's anything wrong with buffalo. When I saw my first one, it was a big thrill. The thing about a buffalo is that it's big and brown and hairy and dusty and kind of scary when it's coming your way. If you've seen "Dances With Wolves," you'll get the idea. In Wyoming, there are even more buffalo than in "Dances With Wolves." And that's a lot of buffalo.

As a consequence, buffalo dominate the state. Buffalo rugs adorn hotel lobbies, buffalo steaks appear on menus, buffalo experts expound theories of the rise and decline of buffalo and buffalo chips are used as fire starters.

In my two week sojourn through Wyoming, I saw a lot of buffalo. But I saw a lot else.

The cornerstones of Wyoming, and the two crucial visiting spots for any tourist, are its two national parks. Grand Tetons National Park features a magnificent range of snow-capped mountains and two beautiful glacial lakes. Just to the north is Yellowstone National Park, the crown jewel in the nation's park system.

Grand Tetons

According to local legend, the Grand Tetons were so named by fur trappers who hadn't seen any women for the duration of their expedition. The horny men came upon the mountain range and immediately decided that the peaks on the horizon resembled "Grand Tetons"--French for "big breasts." This leads to the unfortunate incidence of women buying souvenier T-shirts which read--you guessed it--"Grand Tetons" in large letters across the chest. So much for class.

Tacky T-shirts aside, the national park is a lot of fun. Hiking, canoeing, rafting, backpacking and horseback riding are just some of the recreational pursuits that can be sampled in and around the mountain range. In addition, the hard rock of the Tetons makes the national park a center for rock climbers and home to a world-renowned climbing school. Finally, park rangers lead interesting and informative walks and talks throughout the summer months.

Accomodations in Grand Tetons National Park range from the luxurious Jenny Lake Lodge, a favorite retreat for members of the Reagan cabinet, to Winnebagos and tents.

Those bored with the mountains and wildlife of the Grand Tetons might consider making the short drive south to Jackson, Wyoming. A booming ski town in winter, in the warmer months this town shows its wild West roots with a nightly spectacular, though somewhat hokey, shoot-out. In Jackson, those seeking to look the wild West part can shop for cowboy boots and ten-gallon hats. After that, they can head on over to a saloon where saddles serve as bar stools and action centers on a mechanical bucking bronco.

Jackson even provides some relief for the West-weary. Believe it or not, there are Polo-Ralph Lauren and Benneton factory outlet stores awaiting die-hard shoppers from the coasts.

Yellowstone

Yellowstone National park includes some of the most exceptional natural features in America. While widely known and widely visited because of the geyser Old Faithful, the park features much more than the famous geothermal fountain. Lake Yellowstone is a beautiful resource for boaters and fishermen. The yellow walls and stunning waterfall of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone are said by many to rival the Grand Canyon of Arizona in splendor. Numerous geothermal features, including fumaroles and other geysers, are colorful and smelly and make for a fascinating field lesson in geology. Finally, Yellowstone is known for its wildlife. It is a paradise for birders and one of the few places in the continental U.S. where grizzly bears still roam. And of course, buffalo abound.

When I was in Yellowstone, it burned. The sky was orange with smoke and rangers ran about in yellow fire-retardant suits. Areas, entrances, trails and roads were frequently closed. The park service explained that fire was part of the natural evolutionary process of a forest, but local residents expressed concerns about property damage resulting from out-of-control blazes.

Yellowstone has a remarkable human history as one of the first national parks. Accommodations include Old Faithful Inn, which is the largest tree standing log cabin structure in the world.

There's more to Wyoming. There are some small towns, the Buffalo Bill museum in Cody, Wyoming, and the state capital in Cheyenne (pronounced Shy-ann). Most of all, there are lots of buffalo, who will welcome you with open arms if you ever come within their range.