Harvard Men of 53 Years Ago Reckoned by Contemporary as Too Well Dressed--Crimson Sets Styles for Freshmen

Files of the Crimson of 53-years ago show that at that time the College daily took an active interest in the affairs of the Freshman classes. Among the editorials administering advice to the first year men is one "On Dress," which is herewith reprinted from the issue of the Crimson of September 30, 1875.

A student of a sister University was recently heard to declare that he hated Harvard men. Being asked to state the reasons which led him to hold this opinion, he said that they dressed too confounded well: and with this frank confession of jealousy the conversation came to an end.

That Harvard students have brought the art of dressing to the greatest perfection attainable on this side of the Atlantic is an unquestionable fact. It is a fact, however, that has perhaps not been sufficiently impressed upon all: and the entering class is to all appearances in need of a few words upon this all-important subject. The following lines, then are particularly addressed to Freshmen.

When a man becomes a member of a college he assumes responsibilities from which he has previously been free: he is obliged to sustain the reputation of the institution with which he is connected it is commonly but erroneously, supposed that is he develops his muscles, if he subscribes to the athletic enterprises and the College papers, if he occasionally at tends recitations, and if he professes a healthy antipathy to frigid religious exercises at frigider hours of the most frigid of winter mornings, he has done enough. In other universities he very probably has; but in Harvard the case is other wise. Strong, generous learned, and liberal as Alma Mater unquestionably is her greatest glory lies in the faultless folds of her classic garments; and the chief care of the Freshman should be to preserve the spotless reputation for spotless raiment that has so long distinguished her from somewhat dishevelled sisters.

On minor points it is almost needless to touch. It would be insulting to suppose that a man who has more or less successfully passed the ordeal of the Harvard entrance examinations does not know that grotesque gold pins embellished with cabalistic signs and Greek letters are ornaments suited only to the barbarous taste of the Far West; or that on public occasions bad hats, seedy coats, and pepper-and-salt trousers should be laid aside. The suspicious diamonds displayed by the itinerant tradesmen who replenish their wardrobes from the refuse of our own would in themselves be a sufficient caution against an extravagant display of gold and precious stones in the way of rings, studs, and scarf-pins; and that dress waistcoats are inappropriate companions to sack coats of a morning is a universally acknowledge fact.

Costume Must be Britannic

A truth, however, less firmly impressed upon the mind of the average student is that in costume he must be as Britannic as possible. The statement that a decent coat cannot be cut out of London frequently produces an excellent effect; the exhibition of a large number of samples, chiefly of bright paid patterns, makes a deep impression upon the outer world. The idea that a garment has crossed the ocean gives it a prestige not attainable by other means; and, in speaking of one's winter wardrobe, it is much better, to say "I'm going to send a line to my man," that "I'm going in to the tailor's." Prices, above all, should be estimated in pounds, shillings, and pence, and be aired in at least every third sentence.

Black Frocks Out of Fashion

The pattern of a winter suit should be either an overgrown check or an undersized plaid--on the whole, it would be advisable to procure two or three suits, besides extra trousers, of varied styles. The coloring should be warm. Bright reds, blues, oranges, and yellows give a genial effect to a coat-sleeve; and nobody who was not a gentlemen would ever dare to wear anything of the sort. The coat should be either a very loose sack or a very close-fitting cut-away-- there is nothing meaner than a mean between two elegant extremes. The waistcoat should be cut high in the neck and long in the waist; a single breast makes display enough. Trousers, it is needless to say, should be at least eighteen inches in diameter. Black frocks have been worn for some time of an afternoon. Their days are numbered. The Jews have got hold of them of late; they have become rather tigerish; and blue, reaching fully to the knee, are now considered fully as good form -- two or three bits of cockney slang, by the way, are worth half an hour of the choicest native profanity.

Opera Hat Must be Correct

Of an evening, the student loses his scholastic character in that of a man of the world. All he need do is to dress like everybody else; but it may perhaps be worth while to remark that a man who carries an opera hat lined with anything but black might properly be termed a howling cad or a graduate of the sister University mentioned before.

The Freshmen, to whom these lines are chiefly directed, may perhaps be a little startled by the apparent expense involved in the advice therein offered. The expense, however, is only apparent. No one ever thinks of paying his tailor out of his allowance. The correct thing is to let the bill run, and not pay it at all, --payment encourages impudence: but if the tradesman grows clamorous and threatens jail, all you have to do is to plead minority, and let your parents and guardians settle the matter at their convenience